The principals of CoreStrategies
for Nonprofits, Inc. – Gail Meltzer, Robyn Fern
Perlman and Terrie Temkin – have committed to volunteering
their extensive experience at least once a year to an organization
located in an underdeveloped or underserved area of the
world. They found the perfect match for 2007: The Florida
Association for Voluntary Action in the Caribbean &
the Americas (FAVACA) was looking for someone to work with
a relatively new after-school program in Haiti on sustainability
issues. Would we three women be willing to work in Haiti, despite
daily reports of kidnappings and murder? Of course! The
group, Fondamie or “Close Friends,” works with youth who
would otherwise probably live on the street and end up in
one of Port-au-Prince’s vicious gangs. Many of these young
people are orphans, or HIV positive. Fondamie offers them
options. But options cost money and the agency needed
help.
The following notes reflect the principals’ observations
on their trip to Haiti:
Dateline:
April 2007
The
unmoving Ft Lauderdale/Hollywood International Airport check-in
line for the flight to Port-au-Prince snaked half-way across the terminal
.
Huge suitcases lay piled everywhere. Seems the tie-up concerned
the overpacked, way-over-weight luggage—excess baggage’ll
cost you plenty—so people were busily repacking everything
into carry-ons that would never fit in the overhead bins,
occasioning another round of repacking. (We soon learned
why people visiting friends and family in Haiti bring so much
“stuff” along.) An hour and a half later we were still in the
airport, but at least we were ticketed. It wouldn’t be long
before we were boarded and away.
The
airport in Port-au-Prince Haiti seemed somehow larger than
expected, despite having just one runway to accommodate arriving
and departing flights.
We exited the plane, and walked across the open tarmac to
the distant entrance.
Inside
was a man holding a sign that bore our names. Identifying
ourselves, we were whisked through a door just inside the
terminal. Our diplomatic status through FAVACA assured entrée
into a well-appointed receiving area, where an elegant staff
offered refreshments. We admired the wall-mounted artwork
as English-speaking officials attended to our passports and
paraphernalia.
Shortly
thereafter, we found Chris Beyer, our FAVACA representative,
waiting for us.
Chris
proved to be a great guide, outstanding program facilitator,
and comforting bodyguard: our all-purpose handler! He’d previously
lived in Haiti while in the Peace Corps; now, as a frequent
return visitor, he ably answered our questions concerning
the island’s history and people.
The
ride to our hotel took some 45 minutes. Beyond the car windows,
drainage ditches filled with stagnant water, sewage and trash
lined both sides of the road. The unending tableau of construction
sites with no workers, half-reared, incomplete buildings,
and projects stalled for a lack of money, appeared depressingly
permanent. We learned that after dark, thousands of people
slip off the streets into these unfinished warrens and mazes.
No wonder that in Haiti, the average life expectancy
is 47 years old.
The
rank smells of diesel, crowds and heat assailed us. There
seemed not an empty space in all of Port-au-Prince; just lots
of people, especially young people, and cars.
We’d
been told the country lacked automobiles, yet the streets
were jammed bumper to bumper. It also appears that drivers
kind of make up the rules as they go along. Chris, fortunately,
drives with panache, an admirable mix of grit and caution.
But it’s not just the cars. The people, too, cross everywhere,
all without looking. They simply assume that you’re
the one going to stop.
Haiti
is known as ‘little Africa’ for good
reason—it
feels like Africa.
Everywhere people balance baskets atop their heads while lugging
goods or children, and everything is in a constant swirl of
motion. Shops, lean-to’s, really, of wood or corrugated iron—or
blankets simply spread upon the ground—feature vendors squatting
cheek-by-jowl selling their wares of fruit, roosters, art,
vegetables, drinks, cooking oil, clothes. We saw only one
small, forlorn grocery store. Shoes hang inexplicably from the garishly adorned
cement walls that are
everywhere
but support nothing. The many barbershops and beauty parlors
were easy to spot. They advertise, as in Africa, by pictograph.
Here, large painted heads sport flamboyant coifs and hairdos.
At
some point each day, we found, people converge at a neighborhood
spot where water trucks dole out the daily allotment. Thunderstorms
are a welcome event. One can leave out buckets to catch the
rain.
UN personnel patrol the streets in trucks armed with
large-caliber weapons. Their role? Ensure stability. This
country brims with illegal arms, drug trafficking, roaming
gangs and abject poverty; unemployment is 80 percent. It’s
also a country of palatial homes isolated behind guarded gates. Amidst these extremes of poverty and wealth,
children of all socio-economic levels attend school, if they
can. Dressed in colorful uniforms, they look like children
anywhere in the world as walk hand in hand and laugh. 


Small
flatbed ‘tap-tap’ jitneys with a roof but no windows (most
bright with handpainted religious themes), cram passengers
onto wooden benches, or permit their dangling from the sides
and back. Tap-taps are infamous for weaving crazily down narrow
alleyways filled with potholes. Riders tap-tap the roof to announce their intended stop. Rain, sunshine,
heat, it doesn’t matter—passengers are forever hanging off
these bucking tap-taps. Chris allowed that it gets “quite
warm” with all those bodies.
As
we neared our destination we began to see modern banks with
large sculptures in front, and billboards featuring computer
store and cell phone ads. We noted that one company employed
a marketing strategy familiar in the US, namely, giving away
t-shirts at special events. High-end galleries with vaulted
ceilings
sold
nothing for less than $1,000 US–no bargaining, please. There
were also
expensive
restaurants with sophisticated ambience serving great food.
Still, like everywhere else, the streets were crowded, unpaved
and dirty. Many buildings appeared to be merely facades.
While
we’d been warned not to drink the water in Haiti, our hotel
assured us we could safely drink from the thermoses left in
our rooms. Just to be sure, though, we’d brought along a suitcaseful
of bottled water, and usually drank Coca-Cola
at
the hotel restaurant. We also avoided fruits without thick
skins, or uncooked vegetables. And, we used plenty of insect
repellent, not fully trusting our anti-malarial medicines.
Back
in Port-au-Prince, the chairman of Fondamie had invited us
to visit the office. We had been told about the dangers of
the center city, but we felt it essential to see the program.
Arriving, we found a small complex set behind a wall covered
with barbed-wire loops and broken bottles
cemented
along the top. Mauraders beware! A walk in the small courtyard
revealed window bars of wonderfully worked wrought-iron. Beautiful,
yes, but they still served the necessary purpose of security.
Inside, the small
rooms
had high ceilings and thick walls to help keep things cool.
In 10 minutes we found ourselves drenched and realized that
“cool” is relative. Computers sat on desks in all the offices, but
save for a few faded wall photos, the rooms were empty. A
back courtyard appeared similar to the forecourt. They said
that some of the children played there. We noticed the lack
of space and play equipment.
We also noticed the rubble lying in one corner.
The
Training
We
called the meeting for 9:00am at our hotel. Coming from breakfast
at 8:15, we saw a number of people already in the lobby. At
9:00 sharp, 35 people filed into the meeting room. Young adults,
staff and board members all sat attentively around a U-shaped
table. The young adults, students at a nearby university,
are studying public relations, management and business. They
are gathered here at the behest of Fondamie’s executive director
and board chair, themselves adjunct professors. The students
were expressly recruited to put their talents to use on behalf
of Fondamie. Clearly, they’d been told how special this opportunity
to learn new skills and concepts was.
Two translators were provided for us, which was helpful
since none of us speak Creole. Building thoughts into complex
dialogue at first yields frustration; but together we worked
through the challenge of translating large ideas simply into
a foreign language. Everyone,
including the participants, help using English, Creole and
French. It works. The group suddenly connects in understanding—Eureka!
The discussion became substantial, thoughts turned creative,
and problem solving grew far-reaching. This was teamwork at
its
best: using creative group dynamics to collaborate successfully.
The
second day, we divided into small groups to create plans of
action. Each group was assigned a specific goal. Around the
room, we could hear the participants using the same mental
processes they’d just learned in training. How gratifying!
Our
fantastic translators interface between presenters and group,
and write in Creole as we write in English. The participants
rapidly grasp the basic principles we’ve been sharing of fund
raising, marketing and public relations, and use them to sequence
ideas and plans of action. They are nearly ready to act as
an important organizational support. Investing time and energy
to achieve worthwhile goals, and mastering critical issues
through sophisticated concepts, energizes the entire room.
The group has formed that exact nexus where ideas and action
converge positively—an experience they will surely
remember! 
And,
it’s thrilling to note that in a sea of unrelieved poverty,
abysmal living conditions, and a dire lack of opportunity
there are still energetic, bright young people able to carry
this country forward.
Our
efforts are rewarded. Even at the end of Day One we received
many thank-yous,
and one student delivered a beautiful note addressed in English.
However, the end of Day Two showed how much everyone really
cared. One of Fondamie’s sponsors is personally involved with
the issues of orphans and the blind. She asked a group of
blind musicians to entertain us. A touching pres
entation
ceremony followed where each of us, including Chris, received
a large hand-carved isle of Haiti plaque.
Then
the same student who’d penned the previous day’s note made
another presentation, this time of two Haitian dollars. Old,
and long out of circulation, the bills featured a striking
portrait of Toussaint L’Ouverture, liberator of Haiti. They
were given to us with the message that unlike most foreigners
who come only to take, we
had
come to give and were therefore accepted as family. Everyone’s
eyes welled up, and Chris announced that he’d never seen such
an outpouring of gratitude. All in all, an exceptionally rewarding
experience!
In
too-short order, we were back at the airport awaiting our
flight. We took a last opportunity to scour the meager shops,
and found a few tangible souvenirs of this fascinating journey.
Then we made the reverse trip across the tarmac, and in minutes
Haiti appeared only another small island set against the backdrop
of the turquoise sea. However, it shall always remain significant
in our minds and hearts.